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Fashion


Text by Rushmika Banerjee

Launched in 2008, designer Troy Costa’s eponymous brand has evolved over the years to cater to the expanding tastes of the contemporary Indian man. Costa, who has dressed some of the most influential men in the country, holds a top spot in the modern league of designers – the ones who place emphasis on personal style and customisation rather than celebrity image. And his latest showcase at FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week clearly drew from this philosophy.

Photographed by The House of Pixels

With over 10 years of experience in the industry, Costa has always identified himself as a tailor rather than a designer. He believes that one should cultivate a personal relationship with their tailor, which he ensures by requesting that every client comes to his atelier for initial fittings. This Savile Row approach towards clothing has not only refined his skill set but also helped him to recognise the specific fashion needs of his customers. In the process, the brand has developed a niche following and the understanding of a menswear wardrobe that goes beyond business wear and smart casuals.

The first look on the runway was a luxe co-ord set styled with neon accents, and it immediately set the tone for the rest of the collection that embodied a casual, effortless vibe. Premium athleisure followed: slim joggers and shorts; chic sweatshirts and bombers, designed for elevated comfort. A metallic hoodie and complementing pants were the highlight of this segment – a bold design statement for a post-COVID world. The looks were finished with white sneakers, belt bags and baseball caps. Smart business ensembles were next. A scarlet jacket and pants worn over a sleek turtleneck, a blazer with stripes down the side and tailored suit sets. While the cuts were simple and classic, the designer focused on unique details – a bejewelled pocket on a bomber, neon drawstrings and trims and stripes that ran along the seams of a jumper.

While we would have liked to see a more diverse runway as well as a stronger push against the boundaries of gender, Costa did experiment with a few looks that took a playful jab at the concept of conventional masculinity. For instance, a head-to-toe millennial-pink suit worn over a pink shirt (very Timothée Chalamet), and a sheer top styled over metallic pants that was a gentle nod to the ’90s. While men’s accessories also got an update with the designer’s versions of the minaudière and tote bag.

In line with looking beyond a pandemic-restricted world, travel was the primary theme of the collection, with duffel bags and structured backpacks completing some of the looks. In his press statement, Costa stated, “The [Troy Costa man] is an avid traveller and a fashion expressionist. The past few months have mirrored us on how one should celebrate every single day, as tomorrow isn’t promised!” Taking this inspiration forward, the clothes exuded a sense of glamour, but it was tempered by a streetwear-influenced simplicity. A marked shift from Costa’s previous showcases, where he mainly explored a more formal elegance. The high-impact looks in this latest collection also included a patchwork jacket over white shorts, a bold fuchsia suit set and a zebra-print blazer.

Avido Tourista, which translates to “avid tourist” in English, is a smartly conceptualised collection that introduces a “luxe and bespoke” element to every aspect of menswear. In the new decade, the contemporary Indian man is re-inventing his aesthetic, and Troy Costa hopes to lead the charge.

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